Museums
Netherlands
Leiden
December 12
Once we left the Amsterdam airport, Mark, Jewel, and I quickly dropped off our luggage at the hotel and caught a train to Leiden. It was a cold and overcast day, with rain drizzling intermittently.
Leiden is the birthplace of the famous painter Rembrandt. We visited the site where his family home once stood, which is now an open plaza. Rembrandt’s father was a miller, and it is believed he operated the Molen De Put, a flour mill located across the bridge from their family home.
Our journey took us to the Young Rembrandt Studio, where we deepened our understanding of his childhood. What emerged was a captivating link to American history. The Pilgrims, fleeing England, settled in Leiden for over a decade. As tensions rose with Spain, they embarked on their journey to America. Remarkably, one of Rembrandt’s childhood friends was among those who sailed on the Mayflower, illustrating how interconnected our histories truly are.
Amsterdam
December 13
On our first full day together with Jared, we boarded an early train to Amsterdam. The weather was cold, overcast, and rainy once again.
The day was filled with rich culture as we explored the Van Gogh Museum and the poignant Anne Frank Museum. We also indulged in a delightful Genever tasting and an underwhelming Light Festival cruise.
During our early evening stroll, we passed through Rembrandtplein, a central square in Amsterdam named after the famous artist Rembrandt van Rijn, who owned a house nearby from 1639 to 1656. The statue of Rembrandt was designed by Louis Royer in 1852 and is the oldest surviving statue in Amsterdam. In stark contrast, across the square stands Joseph Klibansky’s modern interpretation of Rodin’s The Thinker. The contemporary Dutch artist created this sculpture in 2018, and it has been located here since 2023.
After dinner, the cold intensified, so we returned to Haarlem and the warmth of our cozy room. I thoroughly enjoyed a wonderfully hot shower – pure bliss after a day of exploration.
The Hague
December 14
The Hague is just a short train ride from Haarlem. We dedicated part of our day to visiting the renowned Mauritshuis Museum and the impressive Peace Palace, both of which offer unique cultural experiences.
Despite the cold, cloudy weather with a light drizzle, the day took a delightful turn when Jewel and I witnessed a brief flurry of snowflakes. While it was short-lived, the sight of snowflakes instead of rain added a touch of magic to our adventure.
As we strolled around the scenic Hofvijver, a picturesque lake at the heart of The Hague, we came across the statue of Johan van Oldenbarnevelt. His legacy is remarkable; he fought alongside William I of Orange against the Spanish, paving the way for Dutch independence in 1648. Johan was a key figure in Dutch history, known for founding the Dutch East India Company. However, after the assassination of William I, Johan found himself on the wrong side of a political divide with Maurits, William’s son. This conflict, rooted in the differing religious theologies of Calvinists and Arminians, ultimately led to Johan’s tragic arrest and execution at the Binnenhof.
Haarlem
December 12 to 14
Haarlem served as our home base, offering easy train access to other cities in the Netherlands. The weather was cold and rainy which was consistent with the region.
Every year, Haarlem hosts an annual Christmas market (Kerstmarkt Haarlem) that takes place over just one weekend. When we arrived, vendors were busy setting up for the event. We visited the Haarlem market on Saturday evening.
Belgium
Brussels
December 15 to 17
After our journey in the Netherlands, we eagerly ventured into Belgium. Although the weather was still misty and overcast, it was pleasantly milder than in the Netherlands – a great relief!
Central Brussels offers a delightful experience for walkers, with its vibrant Lower and Upper Town areas. We chose a fantastic bed and breakfast as our home base, conveniently located just a stone’s throw away from the stunning Grand Place in Lower Town. It was the perfect spot to immerse ourselves in the charm of this beautiful city!
Traveling Statues
We had the opportunity to see two unique statues that were temporarily showcased in Brussels: The Nautipoulpe and Lucia.
The Nautipoulpe
This impressive bronze sculpture, crafted by François Schuiten and brought to life by Pierre Matter, captures the enchanting underwater world envisioned by Jules Verne. Commissioned by the town of Amiens, it pays tribute to the legacy of the beloved French sci-fi writer on the 120th anniversary of his passing in 1905.
Just weeks before our visit to Brussels, this striking statue was unveiled outside the Palais de Justice. Come March, it will journey to its permanent home in Amiens.
Lucia
This interactive artwork from Montréal, tells the story of Lucia, a young dancer from Ravenna, Italy, who dreams of traveling around the world. One day, she meets Giorgio, a local streetlamp lighter. When Lucia is injured in an accident and can no longer perform, Giorgio creates a music box that allows her to dance forever.
The concept was created by Anne Lagacé and Mirari and features music box construction by the Jack World, music composition by Maxime Goulet, and sculpture by Yann Guillon.
Audience participation is required to make Lucia dance. By turning the cranks at the base, Lucia rotates while the music and lights change. Lucia danced in the Town Hall Courtyard only during the holidays. We were fortunate to have the opportunity to see her in action.
Peeing Statues
When visiting Brussels, you can’t miss the iconic Manneken Pis, the most famous statue in the city. This charming 17th-century figure of a boy is not just an amusing sight; according to legend, he heroically saved the city from a fire attack by urinating on a burning fuse.
But the Manneken Pis is not alone in celebrating this quirky tradition. There’s also Jeanneke Pis, a playful little girl statue created in the late 1980s, and Zinneke Pis, a cheeky stray dog statue from the late 1990s. Together, these statues embody the spirited, rebellious nature of Brussels.
They also spark intrigue about Belgium’s celebrated beer culture. Could there be a deeper connection?
When we visited the Manneken Pis statue, he was not wearing any clothes, which was surprising since he has a variety of Christmas outfits. His collection of clothing can be viewed at the Garderobe Manneken Pis Museum.
As we walked past the museum, we noticed his Santa outfit displayed in the window. It’s likely that he will wear this festive attire closer to Christmas Day, adding to the holiday spirit in the city.
Ghent
December 16
Ghent is only a quick train ride from Brussels, making it an ideal day trip. Upon arrival, we eagerly purchased a CityCard and hopped on a tram to the historic city center.
Our first view of the skyline came from St. Michael’s Bridge. The three famous towers of the city are St. Nicholas’ Church, the Ghent Belfry, and St. Bavo’s Cathedral (from left to right).
Although it was mostly cloudy throughout the day, we occasionally saw blue skies. It was enjoyable to experience milder weather.
Ghent was a thriving city during the Middle Ages. By the 14th century, its textile industry was flourishing, making Ghent the first industrial city in mainland Europe.
The waterway beneath St. Michael’s Bridge served as the city’s busy harbor. From the bridge, we could see the ornate guild halls that line the river Leie along the Korenlei and Graslei quays.
The old city center is quite small. A brief walk allowed us to visit St. Nicholas Church, the Belfry, St. Bavo’s Cathedral, and the City Market Hall.
We enjoyed a stunning aerial views of the city from the Belfry.
We also visited Gravensteen, the Castle of the Counts. Before sunset, we were able to get one last view of the Ghent skyline.
Graffiti Lane
Graffiti is a significant concern in many urban areas. Rather than imposing a complete ban, Ghent has taken a progressive approach by creating Graffiti Lane (Graffitistraatje), a legally designated space that encourages creativity and self-expression among graffiti artists.
France
Strasbourg
December 18 to 19
Ghent is only a quick train ride from Brussels, making it an ideal day trip. Upon arrival, we eagerly purchased a CityCard and hopped on a tram to the historic city center.
Our first view of the skyline came from St. Michael’s Bridge. The three famous towers of the city are St. Nicholas’ Church, the Ghent Belfry, and St. Bavo’s Cathedral (from left to right).
Although it was mostly cloudy throughout the day, we occasionally saw blue skies. It was enjoyable to experience milder weather.
Ghent was a thriving city during the Middle Ages. By the 14th century, its textile industry was flourishing, making Ghent the first industrial city in mainland Europe.
The waterway beneath St. Michael’s Bridge served as the city’s busy harbor. From the bridge, we could see the ornate guild halls that line the river Leie along the Korenlei and Graslei quays.
Paris
December 20 to 24
Ghent is only a quick train ride from Brussels, making it an ideal day trip. Upon arrival, we eagerly purchased a CityCard and hopped on a tram to the historic city center.
Our first view of the skyline came from St. Michael’s Bridge. The three famous towers of the city are St. Nicholas’ Church, the Ghent Belfry, and St. Bavo’s Cathedral (from left to right).
Although it was mostly cloudy throughout the day, we occasionally saw blue skies. It was enjoyable to experience milder weather.
Ghent was a thriving city during the Middle Ages. By the 14th century, its textile industry was flourishing, making Ghent the first industrial city in mainland Europe.
The waterway beneath St. Michael’s Bridge served as the city’s busy harbor. From the bridge, we could see the ornate guild halls that line the river Leie along the Korenlei and Graslei quays.